More Restoration Pages:
Oxy10 for Ink Stains on Vinyl
Oxy10 is almost miraculous for ink stains. I repair dolls and give them away
at Christmas time. This CPK imitation doll was donated, and her face was
tattoo'ed with blue ink. So, I decided she was the real test case for Oxy10. I
applied it over all the blue marks and let the doll sit for six weeks. When I
washed the Oxy10 off, the doll looked like new. I have treated other dolls,
but this one was the worst.
Oxy10 is a blemish or acne cream for teenagers and is available in almost any pharmacy dept. I buy the extra strength invisible formula, which comes in a little bottle with a snap pop top and the bottle is packaged in a yellow red and white box I think. Benzoyl peroxide seems to be the necessary ingredient. The generic brands seem to work just as well, but the cream in Oxy10 is better quality and spreads easier.
Oxy10 goes on like a white cream and on vinyl dolls it dries white. (I'm not
sure what it does on teenagers.) Put it on. Leave the doll alone for 4 to 7
weeks, depending. If you take it off and the blue is still there, then reapply
and leave for a few more weeks.
If you want to speed up the process you can put the doll in the sun or under a heat lamp. Be sure to keep an eye on her, though, because Oxy10 can burn the vinyl if left under the hot sun for too long. Also, you may want to cover the doll's face so that her face color won't fade in the sun: only expose the area that has a stain on it.
Oxy10 seems to work best with blue or black ball point pen type inks. It usually works on red ink and magic marker also but it takes longer. It doesn't seem to work on pink or yellow highlighter but maybe it would if you put the doll in sunlight.
Benzoyl Peroxide is the bleach that is in Oxy10. This ingredient stays in the vinyl and it stays active. If you ever decide to dye your doll, the area that had Oxy10 on it will not accept the dye.
TOUGH CASES - Because the benzoyl peroxide stays active, sometimes I put the doll in the hot sun WITHOUT any Oxy10 on her. I only do this with a doll who has had many applications of Oxy10 already, so I know that the benzoyl peroxide is in the vinyl. I put the doll in the hot sun all day, baking her as much as possible. It also helps to rub the doll with mineral oil or Skin So Soft oil when I do this. The heat and the oil apparently helps the benzoyl peroxide to go deeper into the vinyl. This method has faded some of my hardest, toughest cases. This is effective for dolls with very bad stains especially.
One collector told me that she used soft scrub gel on black marker and put the white doll in hot sunlight (Arizona.) After one afternoon, the black marker was gone. So, bleach or bleach gel might have some possibilities for removing ink stains also. I have not tried it yet.
Hair Spray for Ink Stains on Cloth
If a doll has blue ink on her cloth body, I use hairspray. The ink disappears within seconds. This only
works on cloth, though. It doesn't work every time, but when hair spray does do the job it does a great
job of taking out the ink. Hair spray also removes pen marks from formica countertops.
Printshop Cleaner for Black Magic Marker Stains
Plastic cleaner is another essential item that I can't live without. (This chemical is used in printshops to
surface clean the equipment. It removes ink without damaging plastic.) Using this chemical, the ink will
sometimes rub off the dolls easily. It also takes off white paint rubs. (Have you noticed that almost all
play dolls have white paint on them? I think it comes from banging off of walls.)
Plastic Cleaner can remove adhesive, ink and many things. It can clean black marks off of auto bumpers. The bottle claims it does not damage plastic. So far I have found that to be true. It is especially good for removing paint and some surface stains from vinyl. The plastic cleaner does not help much with ball point pen on vinyl. I use Plastic Cleaner constantly, but I know it's limitations. It's not a magic cure every time. Plastic Cleaner is available in my Doll Shop, on the doll supply page.
Plastic cleaner usually does not remove the doll's face paint, but sometimes it does so be careful (especially with older dolls.)
I accidentally discovered something else my ink remover will do. I had a troll with a great big black marker slash across the bottom of his very large foot. I couldn't rub it off or sand it off. So, I left the doll in a box and because I was frustrated with it I didn't think to wash off the chemical when I was done. Several weeks later I took him out of the box, and the mark was almost gone!!! The chemical had continued working and it faded the ink to a barely discernible trace of yellow.
I have heard that WD40 is effective for removing some ink stains also. I've tried it, and this might be true. However, WD40 has a very strong chemical odor whereas the plastic cleaner is not so offensive and whatever odor there is wears off. WD40 tends to linger on....
Skin So Soft for Mildew or Cigarette Odors
Ooooooooh boy... Smoking odors are tough. I tried Febreze, which is recommended for removing odors
from many things. Unfortunately, my doll took up smoking again the very next day.
It took a while to find things that really work on smoke odors and/or mildew odors. First, clean the doll
thoroughly with soap, water, scrub brush and plenty of spray cleaner with lots of bleach in it. Bleach
does help to cut smoking and mildew odors.
Then let the doll sit in therapy with Skin So Soft oil. The oil is good for the doll's hair and the vinyl. It
"conditions" the hair and refurbishes the vinyl. I spray a little oil directly on the doll and rub it all over
her body. I also spray some in the hair and rub it in. I'm more generous with the hair oil because the
smoking odors seem to cling to the hair even more than the vinyl body.
Let the doll sit with the oil for a few days. I spray her again every few days until the nicotine smell is no longer noticeable. It can take several weeks, sometimes more and sometimes less. Give the doll a good soapy bath when finished with the oil treatments. If the cigarette smoke returns later, then start the oil treatments again. Sometimes it takes a while before a doll finally gives up the habit, but Skin So Soft does eventually win in the end.
This same therapy is very effective for mildew odors in vinyl. In fact, I think it may be easier to get rid of mildew odor than it is to get rid of smoking odors. If mildew odors are really bad, I soak the doll completely in bleach and water, and leave her to soak for hours. This might ruin the hair but what does it matter if the doll is ruined with mildew odor anyway? If you can get the odor out of the vinyl you've saved her. Then just give her a wig later on.
Restoring Cheek Color
I use lipstick or an oil-based crayon for cheek color. Recently I discovered that lipliner makeup pencils
are very good for cheek color, and I also found some oil-based pastel pencils at Walmart that I like. I
actually prefer the oil based stencil crayon but I can't find any more of them. The crayon is a little better
than lipstick because it covers whereas lipstick soaks in. Lipstick does dry well and stay well and the dark
red that I use on the black dolls looks terrific. The lipliner is better than lipstick because it's more vivid
and doesn't require as many applications to build color.
I select a lipstick or crayon color that looks good with the doll's own lipcolor and/or original cheek color. Pink for pink, coral for coral. On white dolls, that is. For the black dolls, a brick color or other reds are better on the cheeks, even if the lip paint is pink.
Apply the color to the center of the doll's cheek using your finger and then blend that dab of color to the edges so it fades and looks natural. You don't need to apply to a large area, just a small spot on each side.
If you want a higher color on the doll, apply more of the oil crayon or lipstick to the center of the cheek and build it up at the center while continuing to blend and fade at the edges.
Repairing cheek color: Sometimes I am able to touch up the original cheek color without removing it. One of our Baby Face collectors discovered that you can smooth damaged cheek color by dipping your finger in non-acetone polish remover and rubbing the affected area. You can even smooth out chips in the face paint.
However, it may be necessary at times to remove the old cheek color if it is chipped or has gouges in the paint. I use non-acetone nail polish polish remover to remove damaged cheek color.
Be careful when using acetone on dolls. Ordinary nail polish remover contains acetone. This chemical can damage plastics and vinyl. I use non-acetone nail polish remover.
Also avoid using Super Glue because it can damage some kinds of plastics and acrylics. It will melt the Baby Face eyes, for example. So don't use it to apply eyelashes.
Don't try this unless you are somewhat artistic and are confident of a steady hand. I use nail polish to touch up chips on the lip paint. I use a nail polish that matches the original color almost exactly. Surprisingly, the cheapest brand of nail polish works just fine and they've got a great color selection. I do make sure to stay inside the original lip line. I don't go over the line. If the nail polish gums up a little or shows brush strokes, then put a clear coat over the colored coat. If you do this when the first coat is dry but not set hard, the clear coat will actually "melt" the brush strokes and the doll's lips will be smooth.
I don't like to do repainting. It's extremely difficult to get the polish smooth enough or the strokes professional enough. I only repaint if there are chips or bad rubs and there is no choice but to fix it.
Sometimes all that is needed is to apply a coat of clear polish and this might brighten up the original paint enough. I have also learned that if I apply a coat of clear polish after I have painted a doll's mouth, it sometimes smooths out my brush strokes and makes my handiwork look better.
Cotton Pads & Baby Wipes
I use cotton cosmetic squares or circles constantly with my dolls. I also use baby wipes a lot. If you have
them on hand, you will continually discover new uses for them. The cotton pads are great when using
many kinds of chemicals. The baby wipes are great for all the little cleanups and for washing dusty little
faces.
I love Sandi's new hairstyle. This curly "perm" hides her haircut (she had been trimmed a little around the ears.) But, I think this hairdo is much more becoming than the original one. I don't think the photo really shows off how charming she looks in her curly do. She reminds me a little bit of Miss Piggy with those abundant blonde curls. To create this hairstyle, I set her wet hair with perm rods. When dry, I aimed the hair dryer at each roller for just a little bit (not too long) in order to heat set the curls, and then unrolled the hair when it was completely cool. I have also used a steamer to steam set the curls and this might be a little safer than the hair dryer.
You can also pour boiling water on each perm rod to heat set a curly perm. (Just be careful not to get the hot water on Baby Face eyelashes.) This method does work very well. I tried it on an Angel Face doll with bad hair, and she has tight curly bangs now.
Becca has already been adopted. She was one of my favorite projects and with her I think I crossed the bridge from refurbishing to restoration. I had a difficult time with her hair especially, which had the polyester equivalent of split ends. So, I decided that a curly perm was the best solution here as well. Even though Becca's hair is shorter, the perm worked very well and I think she is CUTE. By the way, the perm relaxed a little by the next day and the curls got even prettier. They were still rather tight when I took this picture.
"So Innocent Charity" was Cynthia in her childhood, or rather: someone
else's childhood. Cynthia was not mistreated, she was loved to death.
Her hair hadn't been cut, it was worn thin from constant play. So, I
shaved her head and applied a woman's partial hairpiece that fit the scalp
perfectly.
I have heard that you can reroot doll's hair. I know of several people who have done it. So far I have cheated and I use wigs. Although, I do want to learn rerooting enough so that I can give my Marcy a purple ponytail again. Those who have tried rerooting use a very long needle and pliers to grip it with. You can buy replacement hair or a wig or hair from another doll. Thread the hair through the needle and knot one end very well. Then push the needle through the scalp holes starting inside the head. They tell me this is a hard, tedious job.
When applying a wig, use rubber cement or a craft glue such as Aleene's. Do not use superglue. I like to use rubber cement. Some doll wig companies recommend the craft glue.
First, I shave off the old hair using a pet groomer by Oster, which is the same thing as an ordinary electric hair clipper. When the "hair" is as short as I can get it, then I apply glue very generously over the dolls' scalp. I wait for a little bit to allow it to set, but not too long.
Turn the wig inside out and tuck all the hair strands inside. I apply glue to the crown of the wig and around the edges but be careful not to get any in the hair. Rubber cement is difficult to get out of doll hair.
Then, put the crown of the wig on the crown of the dolls head while it is still inside out, and gradually unfold the wig down over the head of the doll. Pull it into place and allow to dry.
Most wigs will require some restyling and possibly some trimming before they look nice and natural on the doll.
Baby Face dolls wear an 12 to 13 inch wig. Measure the circumferance of the doll's head to determine how many inches. Wig sizes are determined by inches. I do have some black wigs in the Doll Shop which fit Baby Face.
How to Clean Battery Acid from a Battery Compartment
Sometimes the batteries leak and you will find dried battery crystals and blue corrosion inside the compartment. Remove the batteries and crystals without touching them and using a small brush or rag to clean out the compartment until it is clean again.
To remove the corrosion from the metal pieces inside the compartment, use an emery board to sand down to shiny metal again. It does not require a lot of sanding, just enough so the batteries will contact the metal points. If the wire coils are all corroded, I have been known to spray Skin So Soft on them (because it is an oil) and then wipe them clean with a cloth and sand the coils with the emery board after the oil has cleaned them off a little. I did this on a rollerskating doll and now she works fine. Her compartment was one of the worst I've had to clean up.
If the batteries leak and you find liquid battery acid in the compartment, then be extra careful to clean without touching the acid. Use rags and tissues and it might be a good idea to wear gloves.
On some older vinyl dolls, the joints are loose and won't hold position. To make the joint snug again, slide some small rubber bands up the arm or leg and into the joint. This is what doll manufacturing companies did in the 50's and 60's to make the joints snug: they put a thick rubber band in the joints sometimes so the limbs would hold position. This method won't work on strung dolls.
Fixing Eyelashes Using a Hairdryer
Many thanks to Diane Haddox for giving me this tip on fixing Baby Face eyelashes. Hold a hairdryer
about two feet away from the doll's face and blow the eyelashes. You may want to tie something around
the doll's hair first so that her hairdo is not damaged or affected by the heat from the blow dryer. Then,
try blowing the eyelashes. Do not get too close and don't get too hot or you will have worse than you
started with. If you do accidentally heat the eyelashes the wrong direction, then stop. Take a break. Let
the doll recover her composure and then try again.
You can probably fix your mistake, unless you really fried the lashes. I have found varying degrees of success using the blowdryer. If the lashes are only a little bit off, they will pop right back into shape and look great. But, if the lashes are really twisted a lot then don't expect as much. They will be improved but they'll probably never be perfect again.
Another thing that helps: I washed off an old mascara brush and I use that to comb the lashes while I blow them with the dryer. This way, I can guide the results. Also, because my hand is under the dryer too, I can feel the heat and back off when there's too much. I think I have more control when I use the mascara brush.
Don't try this unless you are fairly good at fixing things. It is a good thing to have one "experimental" doll you can practice with first. I have an experimental Suzy who has been through all sorts of tests and trials. (Surprisingly, she still looks pretty good.)
Reshape the Visors for Baby Face dolls
The visors are made from thin sheets of plastic and they do get out of shape. To reshape them, aim a blow dryer at them. Don't get too close!! It doesn't take much for results. The heat will smooth out the visors in a very short time. Or, dip the plastic visor in warm water to soften it and then lay it on a towel to reshape it.
Dye Sheila's Ponytails Pink Again
Almost any Sheila who has been out of the box has faded ponies. This is the way it is. The color is very pale to begin with and it fades out almost completely if the doll is not kept in the dark.
I have restored the pink color to my Sheila's ponies using pink magic marker type highlighter. I wrapped Sheila's head in cellophane so only the ponies were showing, and I wrapped a small rubber band tihgt around the base of each pony right at the roots - this is so ink cannot back up under the cellophane. I also wrap the doll in a towel to protect her all over. Then I color the ponies with pink highlighter marker. I prefer to use a new marker that has lots of ink in it and flows easily.
I color the ponytails a LOT, going over the hair again and again and again. I put white paper underneath the ponies while I do this and fan the hairs out so I don't miss any of them. The ponies will look very very pink but don't worry, most of this washes out later on.
I allow the marker to dry for a couple of weeks so the color sets. Yes, I wait WEEKS. Then rinse the ponies carefully so the water does not back up under the cellophane or get onto her blonde hair. Rinse a lot, with very warm water and shampoo. The pink marker has a lot of oil in it and the oil never dries completely so you will see a lot of pink color washing out of the hair. Rinse until the water has run clear for a long time.
Then let her hair dry overnight and the next morning you can style. The ponies will be pink again. In fact, they might be a tad bit darker than original but it is a very pretty color and it should last a long time. I think that marker color is possibly more stable than pink RIT dye. That's why I use it instead.
The first time I tried this, I did a second coat (repeated the process)... but I don't think this is necessary because the ponies did get very pink when I was finished and Sheila is supposed to be pale pink. Personally, I like my bright pink Sheila though.
This is what I do with a Sheila who has faded. As with all my refurbishing tricks it's always at your own risk but I think this is fairly easy to do.